More TT Notes...

TT NOTES IN PREDEO.BLOGSPOT

“http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pingpong-lesson-serve-n-attack.html”
“http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pingpong-lesson-power-and-return-serve.html”
“http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pingpong-lesson-ready-position-n.html”
“http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pingpong-lesson-footwork.html”
“http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pingpong-lesson-2-serve.html”
“http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pingpong-lesson.html”

ME N ITTF

· “http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/ittf-and-me.html”
· “http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/01/pengalaman-attend-ittf-level-1-coaching.html”



TT SUCCESS FACTORS.



1. teknik,cordination
2. taktik,knowledge
3. fizikal
4. mental,spirit,saikologi
5. visualasation , imagine, berangan2..

1.teknik
- skills.. attack,defense,serves.. etc
2. tactics

- placement,rotation,speed,tracjectory/bounce of the ball

3. fizikal
- stamina, strength, diet,....
4. Mental
** faktor minda bawah sedar – dr tuah.
“selagi game belum over set dlm fikiran.. anda akan mng and work for it.”
dlm arena pp ne esp bila tournament mcm
mcm ade. ada player yg top ada player yg pernah top ada player yg bagus tp x top lg. ada player yg baru dan boleh buat upset.

lawan player lama yg pernah top dan lawan player baru yg sedang nk top mencabar minda kdg2 .. kebiasaannya player akan kalah game dimana dia mentally unprepared for that game.. bila mentally prepared maksudnya kita x plan
proper straegi for that game.

camnekah strategi yg berkesan utk prepare mental kita dlm game?

takut kalah or nak sgt mng kdg kdg boleh menybbkan seseorg pemain itu x dpt bermain dgn aksi yg terbaik. game yg terbaik seorg player tu dpt hasilkan adalah bila dia dpt gunakan kekuatannya dan cover kelemahannya dan sebaliknya utk lwn yg dia hadapi..

prinsip berikut antara yg sy pernah dgr dikalangan player :

- dia takut kt aku
- aku akan cuba yg terbaik
- nothing too loose
- musnahkan dia
- respect ur oppenent
-”check every point"

sy pernah baca dlm paper , interview bersama rudy hartono lagenda badminton. rudy shares yg dia akan berdoa kpd tuhan utk every point dlm game, fakta yg sungguh menarik.

buku j.o waldner "when the feeling decides" dgn kita semua..
ada seorg coach share something very interesting...
5. visualasation , imagine, berangan2..
we must visualize tommorrow game tonite or bef the game for better result.. than it is important to know who is ur oppenent.

**** but the very most important is base on my personal experient is similar to rudy hartono. God will decide what will happen next. So ask from god and work for it and terima qada dan qadar. amin


FEW GOOD TIPS
yesterday.. i play a game with him, after the game he tells me few gud tips :

- always spin
- always bend down ur knees
- move the hand upwards above the head
- throw ur body down
- better play mid distance and attack

tq sir tq tq..

Best of The Best – from matrik@pp4m..
Best forehand: Wang Liqin, China
The lanky Wang has the strongest muscle groups as a table tennis player, which is the result of years of hard training. He is the physically strongest in Asia and has agility rarely seen in European players. He hits the ball early and has a killer forehand drive with precision. Unlike traditional Chinese topspin players who are dangerous only while playing close to the table, Wang is as deadly close to the table as away from.

Best backhand: Kalinikos Kreanga, Greece

Before playing table tennis, Kreanga practiced gymnastics. No wonder why he can flex his arm in his backhand loop in a way that nobody else can. He is rather below average height. With his small size he can afford to make longer strokes, because he can get ready for the next shot easier. If you are average height, and attempt his shots, there is no way you could make them consistently with his kind of power.

Best serve: Liu Guoliang, China

No one has reached Liu Guoliang's height in terms of serving with pips-in and pips-out rubbers. He is able to add strong spin to his serves, especially his forehand backspin serve. With nearly the same flick of the wrist, Liu can serve with forehand rubber and backhand rubber, serve lefty topspin and backspin, righty topspin and backspin. He can easily set up for killer smashes with a slew of wicked serves.

Best receive: Liu Guoliang, China

Liu has different ways to receive serves. He can loop, smash, push, chop-block and flip serves. He can receive with either forehand or backhand, long or short, straight or diagonal. More important, he has a perfect touch. Also nominated: Jan-Ove Waldner(Sweden), Kong Linghui (China)

Best short ball: Ma Lin

While Liu Guoliang has the best receive, Ma Lin is the most consistent and dangerous in short returns. He has the best control and connection in short balls.

Best footwork: Ryu Seung Min, South Korea

South Koreans, mostly playing with pip-in rubber in the penhold grip, have the best footwork in the world. Ryu covers as much space as Kim Taek Soo but is even faster and has better judgment than his compatriot. He is more aggressive because he plays closer to the table than Kim.

Best tactics: Liu Guoliang, China; Ryu Seung Min, South Korea

Around 1995, Liu Guoliang was the most tactics-conscious in the world. In the 21st century, Ryu has caught up with the Chinese. In the 2004 Olympics, Ryu used the well-thought tactics to beat immensely experienced Swede Jan-Ove Waldner and Chinese upstart Wang Hao to win the singles gold medal. Liu is faster than Ryu but the South Korean is bolder in tactics execution.

Best choppers: Ding Song, China; Joo Se Hyuk, South Korea

South Korean Joo Se Hyuk and Chinese Ding Song are the best and most crowd-pleasing defensive players in the world. Ding brought a revolutionary style to the sport by mixing chops with loops and counter-drives. Ding has a good serve and has a sudden and strong forehand drive. Joo has modern active defensive play with a great backhand chop and an enormous forehand topspin.

Best block: Chiang Peng-Lung, Chinese Taipei

Chiang has the most consistent backhand block among the penholders. His jab-block is good enough to offset heavy-spin drives.

TECHNIQUE VS EQUIPMENT IN TT.

http://predeo.blogspot.com/2008/04/technique-vs-equipment-in-table-tennis.html
NOTA-NOTA PENTING - PERATURAN PERMAINAN PINGPONG.
· Net adalah setinggi 16 cm.
· Bola masa serve kena baling at least 16cm daripada tapak tangan.
· Sekiranya pemain langgar meja dan meja bergerak dikira batal.
· Bola yg dilambung daripada tapak tangan telah dikira bermulanya permainan.Pemain yang menangkap kembali bola selepas dilambung akan diberikan mata berkenaan pada lawannya.
· Kiraan mata permainan adalah 11 berdasarkan best of 5 games dalam perlawanan biasa. Setiap pemain akan serve 2 kali kecuali semasa dius , pemain akan serve sekali seorg dan pemain kena dpt 2 point utk tamatkan game. Perlawanan juga boleh dibuat dalam bentuk best of 7 untuk acara semi dan final single individu.
· Permainan bergu memerlukan pemain sentiasa bergilir mengambil/menghantar bola bagi set point.
· Sebarang kelakuan yg menggangu lawan boleh diberi foul oleh pengadil
dgn memberi amaran terlebih dahulu sebagai contoh menjerit dengan kuat atau menghentak kaki dengan kuat semasa perlawanan dengan tujuan menganggu konsentrasi lawan.
· Semain boleh mengesat peluh bagi setiap 6 mata.
· Setiap pemain single/double boleh minta hanya satu time out (seminit) dlm sesuatu perlawanan untuk rehat atau berjumpa dengan jurulatih.
· Jurulatih tidak dibenarkan memberi coaching semasa perlawanan sedang
berlangsung. Jurulatih yang melanggar peraturan berkenaan boleh diberi amaran oleh pengadir dan seterusnya dikeluarkan daripada tempat pertandingan jika masih melanggar arahan selepas diberi amaran.
· Bola yg kena bucu meja dan melantun kebawah tidak dikira dan jika kena
besi juga tidak dikira
· Tapak tangan yg pegang bet juga dikira sebagai bet
· Pemain bergu tidak dibenarkan memakai pakaian yang berlainan warna dalam kejohanan.
· Sekiranya dalam sesuatu kejohanan berpasukan, bergu atau individu, sekiranya perlawanan dijalankan secara liga, penentuan tempat pertama dan seterusnya akan dikira mengikut mata. Sekiranya terdapat 3 pasukan yang mempunyai mata yang sama, maka pengiraan secara set menang/kalah diantara pasukan yang mata sama sahaja. sekiranya masih sama set perlawanan akan dikira. Sekiranya hanya 2 pasukan sahaja yang mempunyai mata yang sama, penentuan akan dikira “siapa menang siapa.”
· Peraturan servis: semasa bola dipukul tiada apa-apa yang menghalang pandangan ke arah bola tersebut kepada kedua-dua sisi net, tangan yang memegang bola mestilah berada diluar meja dan berada di paras meja. Sekiranya pemain menyalahi peraturan ini servis tersebut dikira batal. Pengadil berhak untuk memberi amaran atau terus memberikan mata kepada lawan pemain tersebut.
· Servis yang diterima adalah apabila bola memasuki kawasan mejanya seterusnya melepasi net dan masukan dalam kawasan meja lawannya.
· Servis yang kena net kena diulang (tiada limit).
· ITTF adalah badan persekutan pingpong antarabangsa yang membuat peraturan-peraturan mengenai permainan pingpong.
· Saiz bola pingpong yang standard adalah 40 mm
WHY ALL WOOD BLADE SO SPECIAL
· ****Borko Interview: Q & A****

****Borko Interview: Q & A****
Posted: Yesterday at 3:24pm
Guys, I submitted all of your questions to Borko and he has kindly answered them. Here is the transcript:


**********
How exactly would he make a customized blade for a guy living on the East Coast? Do I send him a video of me playing?
*** After order is placed series of question are communicated between me and the player about its game style of play and playing characteristics and then the blade is crafted ***
What type of player would he recommend a carbon, Arylate/kevlar, Aramid blade to? and why?

*** I do not use carbon fibers in the construction of my blades . All of the blades that I make are of 100% wood fibers. Having sad this I realize that carbon, arylate , Kevlar and other materials are used in the construction of modern blades so I can not comment on them due to my limited understanding of these materials. I understand wood blades only. ***
Can you please improve your handle design to make it look more attractive and cool?
*** Thank you for bringing this to my attention. New Borko & Son blades are made with the new designs using exotic and rare hard woods . *
What is the general price range? I realise that it will probably vary since each blade is unique, but what would an average price tag be?
*** General price range for the blade is 150.00$ postage included for deliveries within continental U.S. of A , International orders shipments are in addition to this as we use United States Postal Service . Rates of the USPS for the international deliveries are quite reasonable.*
How long does it take to build the blade itself? do u have any set routines? is it a son and dad thing, with regards to both of you guys doing the one blade?
*** All the work is done by myself and traditions learned in instrument making are very much part of the blade making process. It takes me approximately 6-8 hrs to craft a blade understanding that due to the hide glues used in production each veneer of wood takes 12 hrs to fully cure. With 5, 7 and sometimes 9 ply blades it takes a bit longer. I make all laminations myself from beginning till end. Son is going to finish his education so it is for all practical purposes is just me making the blades ***
Did you have any idols as a young boy do u still do?
*** My idols when I was growing and playing in what used to be known as Yugoslavia just to name a few: Surbek ,Stipancic,Jonier,Klampar,Alser,Johanson,Li Fu Yung, Chuang Ce Tung and of course Stellan Bentsson who I see every day, for we are both in San Diego TT one of the biggest club in the USA with more than 850 registered members last year.*
Why five plies instead of 1?
*** One ply is blade is used by the players who like the Power and the feeling for there blade. Often made of Kiso Hinoki wood which is Japanese cypress that grows in high mountains of Japan. Blade made of Kiso Hinoki has specific playing characteristics that are highly prized by the pen holder players especially one that like to flat hit the ball. Upon request I make the 1 ply and 5 ply Hinoki blade for the players that prefer that type of wood. I myself use a blade that is 5 ply made of Hinoki Wood. Lately type of American wood called Port Orford Cedar is used as a substitute for Kiso Hinoki. “POC” is characterized by the different coloration of dark strikes and it is a bit softer with the wider grain growth. Kiso Hinoki due to its growth in the higher elevation is milky white with slight pink coloration tight grain both are aromatic but Kiso Hinoki is characterized by the bountiful lemony smell and it is often preferred to “POC”.***
Does a balsa center provide anything more to a blade than stiffness and lightness? Why in most blades the center ply is much thicker than the outer plies
*** Yes you are correct.“Core” of the blade is wide center layer usually made of Balsa, Poplar, Bass and sometimes Kiso Hinoki , gives blade its stiffness and lightness than a thin layer of the first veneers next to it are called “primary” and finally “secondary” on the top ply (are the ones you see). Direction of the grain of the wood gives the characteristics and stability to blade***
What is your favorite wood?/ What type of woods do you use to made the blade?
***It is hard to say what is my favorite wood. Each wood has its own characteristics and if I have to chose it will be Purple Hart, Movenge, Koto,Kiso Hinoki well I really like them all and there characteristics. Sometimes I use the Wood you do not hear about like Olive Wood for instance.***
Professional players stand to benefit most from a customized design and construction. Does custom design play a large role for top players?
***Professional player knows what he needs and they insist on the things they like. Just like with us ordinary club players everyone is different. Main difference is that they do not change the equipment often like we do. Most stick and stay with the equipment that works. They spend more time to improve the elements of their game after all it is their profession. But often they need to replace and repair the equipment. So from time to time I engage in the restoration and the repair of the blades. Last year I had to repair the old blade for Stefan Feth. He use the old Joola “Legend” blade that is not made any more. ***
How long is the delivery time? If I for example were to order one tomorrow, when could I expect to be playing with it? (live in Europe) .
***Present delivery time is 2-3 weeks. There are several orders in place and I’m the only one making blades. Most of the customers know that and are understanding and are willing to weight.***
About Nittaku Violin and Acoustic:
Do you make something similar?*** Yes I do ***
Could you give an estimate of the cost of making the Nittaku blades?
*** Every blade that I make is custom made .Most of them are 150.00$ some little more. If you like the “Nittaku” blade you should buy the “Nittaku” blade .In the case of mass produced blades you are matched to a pre-made blade characteristics .In the case of small private maker blades characteristics are matched to you and you game. So if you want the blade made to fit your game you will look for a private maker to craft a blade for you.***
What are most important factors affecting the power, the speed and the control of a blade?
***Power and speed are directly dependent on number of plies and the type of wood used. “Control” of the blade is different thing for you and me and lets say Samsonov. But in my opinion “control” is the most important characteristic of the blade. You can generate the power when you need it but “control” you ether have in the blade or not. Control is also something we also develop in the game by training hard and practicing long hrs .I like to say that ”Power is Nothing Without Control”.***

4. How to produce synergy between rubber and the blade?
***Often mistake are made in selection of the rubber for the particular blade to suit the payer and his needs. There are three variables :
v player,
v blade
v rubber.
Rubber we chose for the particular blade needs to compliment the playing characteristics of the blade and together with the blade fit the players need. Often new and inexperienced player will chose a fast blade and fast rubber combo let say Bryce/Kreanga Carbon. After we often wonder what is in control of what, Player of his blade ,or its blade in control of him?***
Is it easy to make identical blades (in terms of playing characters)? How large the variation usually?
***To make identical blade is possible and hard and it is best done at the time blades is ordered. Often request is made buy the customers for two blades at the time matched to its playing characteristics and the weight.
Everyone is familiar with the case of finding the blade that they like, lets say Korbel” 80 grams. They go to store arm with the weight scale go over 30 “Korbel” blades and finally find the one of same weight. When they put the rubber on to there surprise it plays nothing like the blade they already have. How is this possible? Same blade ,brand name ,exact weight but totally different playing characteristics.
The answer is in the mass production of the blades .Large companies (not the name the names) use different wood suppliers, different OEM companies to make the blades it self .So even that there are standards and quality control in place they mostly look the same.
Private makers of blades like instrument makers use the wood supply that is in their shop for years. I have wood that have sat in my shop for 30 years now. Wood like that is naturally seasoned and aged and it is very stable. Large companies and blade manufacturers do not have time to do that. They have to make the blades for the large market
Have you always wondered why everyone likes the “old blade”?***
Compared to making instruments is blade making low tech? or a piece of art? or high tech?
**Compared to instrument making , making of the table tennis blade is very similar. Let say that we have the two identical blades in every aspect. One goes to professional player who practices 4 hrs per day and plays matches 4 time a week and the other blade goes to my closet and sits there . Ten years down the line both blades meet each other again , both get the same rubber and they are played side by side by the same player. What do you think will be the better blade? One that was played for 10 years and was “driven” four hrs. per day or the one that “fell a sleep” in my closet. One that looked like the “ugly duckling” with bumps , bruises and scars from the battles and numerous matches and hits on the table or the one “pristine” looking that “fell a sleep” in my closet. One that was used by a player for four hrs a day will clearly outperform in every aspect the one blade that was not used.
But you do not want to listen to me . After all I do believe that “Table Tennis blades go to sleep”.
Borko
***Use of glues in the making of the table tennis blades ***
Use of natural ( hide glues) compares to modern glues(resin glues) is one of essential steps in making of the fine instruments .This time honored proven tradition I feel is very important in making of the table tennis blades. As instrument every table tennis blade vibrate to some degree . Sometimes we welcome this vibration and sometimes not.
Vibration of the blade after the ball is struck with it is what we call the “feel”. It is hard to explain what the “feel” is but if you ever try to make an effective drop shot and take all the energy out of the incoming ball with the blade you have depended on “feel “ of the blade to do this. Some blades are better to execute this than others. Have you played very short pushes and couple of points the “short game” welcome to the “feel of the blade” .To some players this means a lot and to some nothing at all but all blades will vibrate. Modern glues will dry by the chemical reaction and in the process of drying will leave the layer of the glue on the top of the surface. Glue as such will dampen the vibration of the blade . So as we look at the 5 ply or 7 or 9 ply blade we are rely playing a mixture of “glue” and the “wood”. Some glues are better than others .But naturally made glues will seep in to the substructure of the wood thus leaving this very thin layer in between the pieces of the wood improving the “feel” and I believe the performance of the blade. Hide glues are harder to work with,there is a shelf life to worry about, temperature of application is about 140°F this is very important and its called “open time”. Unused glue had to be kept in freezer to prevent the growth of microorganism in it.
So all in all hide glues I feel are better for the blades but they are the pain ………. to use and work with . If you are used to it bund of two layers of wood will be just as strong as with the modern glues but the “feel” of the blade will be improved . This process is time consuming and it takes time to set and cure. As materials used in construction of the blade its age ,moisture everything makes the difference to some degree.
I trust that this explanation will shed some light on the use of the hide glues. As originally started with the “private labels” and small makers hide glues are now accepted with the large companies as a superior way to make a blade when the “feel” of the blade is of concern.